It’s been two weeks since I returned from my trip to Buenos Aires and I’ve been inundated with requests to detail my culinary adventure down south! Unfortunately I realized that a full re-cap would be way tooo long and thus decided to detail my absolute favorite meal and eating experience while in Argentina.
I began researching the best places to eat as soon as my ticket was booked. While pouring through nearly a hundred websites and books dedicated to the best of Argentina one stuck out the most….Casa Felix. Profiled in the NYTimes and the recipient of more praise than any other restaurant I had researched (well except for the famous La Cabrera restaurant), I was hell-bent on getting the chance to eat there.
One of Buenos Aires best kept secrets (not for long), this “closed-door” restaurant is housed in the beautiful home of Chef Diego Felix and photojournalist Sanra Ritten. Open only a few nights a week, this “anti-restaurant” fiercely protects its secrecy by only divulging its location a few days beforehand. Cash only, this pescatarian establishment is an anomaly in a country famous for its beef!
Originally I was placed on the waitlist for their Christmas Dinner and prayed to the culinary Gods that they would make my Christmas Wish come true. When we touched down in Argentina I opened my email account and surprise surprise! Christmas came early because David and I were granted two seats on the 25th!
After an absolutely insane taxi ride from our hotel in Recoleta (he drove about 75 mph and blew through every red light) we arrived at Casa Felix. From the moment you step foot in their house you are filled with this intensively creative vibe. The aura surrounding this place is just magical….they treat you like family from the get-go. We met our fellow diners in the back garden during the welcoming cocktail hour; 18 of our closest strangers which included a large family from Australia and coincidentally four other New Yorkers! Being Christmas and all we gathered around a large communal table and prepared for our five course Christmas feast!
Appetizer:
Portabello Mushroom Viteltone with Suico and Chili Infused Oil
Salad:
Sauteed Octopus with Potatoes Asadas, Lavender Chimichurri and Rosehip Ketchup
Intermezzo:
Melon Granita
Main Course:
Sand Perch Tamal over Vegetables and a Wild Mushroom Ragu
Dessert:
Pan Dulce with Sambayon Ice Cream and Grilled Figs
Paired with wine, each dish was better than the next. Flavors I had never tasted and ingredients I had never heard of before. With a large Italian population, Argentininian food has a slightly Italian bent to it. I tasted surprise and delight with every bite…. especially in the wonderful fish tamal wrapped in an edible leaf, pan dulce (a sort of bread pudding), and octopus salad.
Chef Diego is all about the ethos of slow food and has created dishes inspired by indigenous Argentinian ingredients. Before every course he detailed every single ingredient and where it came from (nearly every herb and vegetable they serve comes from their garden). For nearly four hours we drank bottles of Argentine wine and ate fabulously with our new best friends trading stories of our Argentinian travels, the gloriousness of Brooklyn, and our individual life stories. Being my first Christmas away from my family I could not have asked for better company (funnily enough I was the only gentile) and the fabulous food and fantastic experience is forever seared into my memory.
When visiting Buenos Aires Casa Felix must be at the top of your list!!! Sure you can dine at any number of restaurants in Buenos Aires but to be welcome into an Argentinian home and given the opportunity to dine just as they do….well that’s just priceless.
Buenos Aires
Was a fantastic night! You described everything perfectly and your photos are gorgeous. I have also been singing praises for Casa Felix. We really had such a great time. And apparently we were sitting at the ‘fun end’ of the table!! The other side was a little jealous. The New York – Melbourne thing produced much laughter and most certainly a great night. I am enjoying your blog and its a great way to stay in touch. If you are on facebook, join me as a friend. And if ever you need some tips about Australia, particularly Melbourne, be sure to ask. We love our food down here, and certainly have some amazing restaurants. Hope Per Se is still on track!!!
was such a pleasure spending my christmas with you all! and yes we were on the “cool side” of the table! hahaha
i tried to find you on facebook and couldn’t! friend me at mckenzie mahoney. when i make the trip back to australia… you are the first one im calling!
MM
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